Garden walls built to stand the test of time.
Boundary walls, piers, capping and feature walls — properly footed and properly built.
A garden wall is one of the most visible bits of brickwork on a property — and one of the most poorly built when corners get cut. We dig proper foundations, set out cleanly, and finish with capping or coping that keeps water out for decades.
Most failed garden walls fail for the same two reasons: shallow footings and no movement joints. We dig foundations to a sensible depth for the height and ground conditions, pour a proper concrete footing, and start the wall from a level base — often in engineering brick below ground level where the soil is damp. Taller walls get piers at regular centres, and longer runs get expansion joints so the wall can move without cracking.
There are a few practical questions that come up on almost every job. Height is the first: walls next to a road or pavement usually have planning limits (often around one metre), while rear boundary walls can generally go higher. If you're unsure, we can talk you through what's typical for your situation, though formal planning checks sit with the council. The second is drainage — a wall that traps water against a slope will suffer, so we plan for that where the ground demands it.
Finish makes the difference to how a wall ages. Brick-on-edge capping, coping stones or creasing tiles all shed water differently and change the look completely. We'll show you options and recommend what suits the brick and the setting, then point everything up neatly so water runs off rather than in.
Gate piers and entrance walls get the same treatment — reinforced cores where gates will hang, and caps that match the wall. If you're pairing the wall with new gates or railings, we can set the piers to suit the fixings.
From a low front garden wall to a tall rear boundary, we'll quote honestly and build it once.
What's included
- Front and rear garden walls
- Boundary walls
- Brick piers and gate posts
- Engineering brick foundations
- Capping and coping stones
- Feature and planter walls
Areas we cover: Northampton, Kettering, Wellingborough, Corby, Daventry, Rushden, Towcester, Milton Keynes, Rugby and the wider East Midlands — see all areas we cover.
Free quotes always.
No obligation, no pressure.
Frequently asked questions
How high can I build a garden wall?
Walls next to a road or pavement usually have planning limits — often around one metre — while rear and side boundaries can generally go higher. The formal rules sit with your local planning authority, but we can talk you through what's typical for your situation.
Do garden walls need foundations?
Always. Shallow or missing footings are the number one reason garden walls lean and crack. We dig to a sensible depth for the wall height and ground conditions, and start every wall from a proper level concrete footing.
What finish should I put on top of the wall?
Capping or coping that sheds water — brick-on-edge, coping stones or creasing tiles are the usual options. It protects the wall from frost damage and changes the look completely. We'll show you options that suit your brick and budget.
Can you match an existing wall on my property?
Yes. We'll match the brick, bond, mortar colour and capping detail so the new section reads as part of the original. On older walls that can mean reclaimed brick and lime mortar.
How long does a garden wall take to build?
A typical front or rear garden wall is usually a matter of days rather than weeks, depending on length, height and access. We'll give you a clear timescale with the quote — and concrete footings need a day or two to cure before building starts.
Ready to start your project?
Free quotes always. No obligation, no pressure.